Uso de la vitamina C en medicina estética. Revision sistematica

Víctor García-Guevara

Resumen


El ácido ascórbico es uno de las antioxidantes más importantes a nivel extracelular, es una vitamina esencial y un importante agente antioxidante hidrosoluble, que se sintetiza químicamente a partir de la glucosa, mediante una serie de reacciones enzimáticas. El ácido ascórbico funciona como cofactor en varias reacciones de hidroxilación y amidación; asi como en la conversión de residuos de prolina y lisina del procolágeno a hidroxiprolina e hidroxilisina durante la síntesis del colágeno; igualmente participa en la oxidación de las cadenas laterales de la lisina para la formación de carnitina, en la conversión del Acido fólico a Acido folínico a nivel del metabolismo tisular de las drogas, así como en la hidroxilación de la dopamina para formar noradrenalina. A nivel dérmico ha tenido mucha aceptación en cuanto a su uso como elemento activo en sesiones de intradérmicas locales por su papel esencial en el tejido conjuntivo. Esta revisión demuestra que su uso en medicina estética puede ser un aliado importante en las terapéuticas antienvejecimiento

Palabras clave


Vitamina C; Colágeno; Hidroxilacion; piel

Texto completo:

PDF

Referencias


Chaterjee IB. Ascorbic acid metabolism. World Rev Nutr Diet 1978;30:69-87.

Shekelle P, Hardy ML, Coulter I, Udani J, Spar M, Oda K, et al. Effect of the supplemental use of antioxidants vitamin C, vitamin E, and coenzyme Q10 for the prevention and treatment of cancer. Evid Rep Technol Assess (Summ) 2003;75:1-3.

Kipp DE, McElvain M, Kimmel DB, Akhter MP, Robinson RG, Lukert BP. Scurvy results in decreased collagen synthesis and bone density in the guinea pig animal model. Bone 1996;18(3):281-8.

Schwarz RI, Kleinman P, Owens N. Ascorbate can act as an inducer of the collagen pathway because most steps are tightly coupled. Ann NY Acad Sci 1987;498:172-85.

Tajima S, Pinnell SR. Ascorbic acid preferentially enhances type I and III collagen gene transcription in human skin fibroblast. J Dermatol Sci 1996;11 (3):250-3.

Harish P. Vitamin C: newer insights into its biochemical functions. Nutr Rev 1991;49(3):65-70.

Blanck TJJ, Peterkofsky B. The stimulation of collagen secretion by ascorbate as a result of increased proline hydroxylation in chick embryo fibroblast. Arch Biochem Biophys 1975, 171:259-67.

Eleftheriades EG, Ferguson AG, Spragia ML, Samarel AM. Prolyl hydroxylation regulates intracellular procollagen degradation in cultured rat cardiac fibroblast. J Mol Cell Cardiol 1995;27(8):1459-73.

Peterkofsky B. Ascorbate requirement for hydroxylation and secretion of procollagen: relationship to inhibition of collagen synthesis in scurvy. Am J Clin Nutr 1991;54:1135S-40S.

Pacifici M, Iozoo RV. Remodeling of the rough endoplasmic reticulum during stimulation of procollagen secretion by ascorbic acid in cultured chondrocytes. A biochemical and morfphological study. J Biol Chem 1988;263:2483-92.

Schwarz RI. Procollagen secretion meets the minimum requirements for the rate-controlling steps in the ascorbate induction of procollagen synthesis. J Biol Chem 1985;260:3045-9.

Dumas M, Chaudagne C, Bonte F, Meybeck A. Age-related response of human dermal fibroblast to L-ascorbic acid: study of type I and III collagen synthesis. CR Acad Sci III 1996;319 (12):1127-32.

Crisan D, Roman I, Crisan M, Scharffetter-Kochanek K, Badea R. The role of vitamin C in pushing back the boundaries of skin aging: an ultrasonographic approach. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2015 Sep 2;8:463-70.

Hinek A, Kim HJ, Wang Y, Wang A, Mitts TF. Sodium L-ascorbate enhances elastic fibers deposition by fibroblasts from normal and pathologic human skin. J Dermatol Sci. 2014 Sep;75(3):173-82.

Thomas JR, Dixon TK, Bhattacharyya TK. Effects of topicals on the aging skin process. Facial Plast Surg Clin North Am. 2013 Feb;21(1):55-60.

Xu TH, Chen JZ, Li YH, Wu Y, Luo YJ, Gao XH, Chen HD. Split-face study of topical 23.8% L-ascorbic acid serum in treating photo-aged skin. J Drugs Dermatol. 2012 Jan;11(1):51-6.

Kim M, Yang H, Kim H, Jung H, Jung H. Novel cosmetic patches for wrinkle improvement: retinyl retinoate- and ascorbic acid-loaded dissolving microneedles. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2014 Jun;36(3):207-12.

Taylor MB, Yanaki JS, Draper DO, Shurtz JC, Coglianese M. Successful short-term and long-term treatment of melasma and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation using vitamin C with a full-face iontophoresis mask and a mandelic/malic acid skin care regimen. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013 Jan;12(1):45-50.

Chen L, Hu JY, Wang SQ. The role of antioxidants in photoprotection: a critical review. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2012 Nov;67(5):1013-24.

Greul AK, Grundmann JU, Heinrich F, Pfitzner I, Bernhardt J, Ambach A, et al. Photoprotection of UV-irradiated human skin: an antioxidative combination of vitamins E and C, carotenoids, selenium and proanthocyanidins. Skin Pharmacol Appl Skin Physiol 2002;15:307-15.

Schroder H, Navarro E, Mora J, Galiano D, Tramullas A. Effects of alpha-tocopherol, beta-carotene and ascorbic acid on oxidative, hormonal and enzymatic exercise stress markers in habitual training activity of professional basketball players. Eur J Nutr 2001;40:178-84.

Fung TT, Hunter DJ, Spiegelman D, Colditz GA, Speizer FE, Willett WC. Vitamins and carotenoids intake and the risk of basal cell carcinoma of the skin in women (United States). Cancer Causes Control 2002;13:221-30.

Farris PK. Topical vitamin C: a useful agent for treating photoaging and other dermatologic conditions. Dermatol Surg. 2005 Jul;31(7 Pt 2):814-8.

Lin JY, Selim MA, Shea CR, Grichnik JM, Omar MM, Monteiro-Riviere NA, Pinnell SR. UV photoprotection by combination topical antioxidants vitamin C and vitamin E. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2003 Jun;48(6):866-74.

Darr D, Dunston S, Faust H, Pinnell S. Effectiveness of antioxidants (vitamin C and E) with and without sunscreens as topical photoprotectants. Acta Derm Venereol. 1996 Jul;76(4):264-8.

Humbert PG, Haftek M, Creidi P, Lapière C, Nusgens B, Richard A, Schmitt D, Rougier A, Zahouani H. Topical ascorbic acid on photoaged skin. Clinical, topographical and ultrastructural evaluation: double-blind study vs. placebo. Exp Dermatol. 2003 Jun;12(3):237-44.

Yasuda S, Tada M, Yamada K, Takahata K. Suppressive effects of ascorbate derivatives on ultraviolet-B-induced injury in HaCaT human keratinocytes. In Vitro Cell Dev Biol Anim. 2004 Mar-Apr;40(3-4):71-3.

Maia Campos PM, Gianeti MD, Camargo FB Jr, Gaspar LR. Application of tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations: stability studies and in vivo efficacy. Eur J Pharm Biopharm. 2012 Nov;82(3):580-6.

Panich U, Tangsupa-a-nan V, Onkoksoong T, Kongtaphan K, Kasetsinsombat K, Akarasereenont P, Wongkajornsilp A. Inhibition of UVA-mediated melanogenesis by ascorbic acid through modulation of antioxidant defense and nitric oxide system. Arch Pharm Res. 2011 May;34(5):811-20.

Shindo Y, Witt E, Packer L. Antioxidant defense mechanisms in murine epidermis and dermis and their responses to ultraviolet light. Journal of Investigative Dermatology. 1993;100(3):260–265.

McArdle F, Rhodes LE, Parslew R, Jack CIA, Friedmann PS, Jackson MJ. UVR-induced oxidative stress in human skin in vivo: effects of oral vitamin C supplementation. Free Radical Biology and Medicine.2002;33(10):1355–1362.

Pandel R, Poljšak B, Godic A, Dahmane R. Skin photoaging and the role of antioxidants in its prevention. ISRN Dermatology. 2013;2013:11

Poljsak B, Dahmane R, Godic A. Skin and antioxidants. Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy.2013;15(2):107–113.

Poljsak B, Pesti M, Jamnik P, Raspor P. Impact of environmental pollutants on oxidation-reduction processes in the cell environment. In: Nriagu J, editor. Encyclopedia of Environmental Health. Elsevier; 2011.

Schenk H, Klein M, Erdbrügger W, Dröge W, Schulze-Osthoff K. Distinct effects of thioredoxin and antioxidants on the activation of transcription factors NF-κB and AP-1. Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences of the United States of America. 1994;91(5):1672–1676.

Dreher F, Denig N, Gabard B, Schwindt DA, Maibach HI. Effect of topical antioxidants on UV-induced erythema formation when administered after exposure. Dermatology. 1999;198(1):52–55.




DOI: https://www.doi.org/10.53766/AcBio/

Se encuentra actualmente indizada en:

tanaman herbal berkhasiat obat  

Creative Commons License
Todos los documentos publicados en esta revista se distribuyen bajo una
Licencia Creative Commons Atribución -No Comercial- Compartir Igual 4.0 Internacional.
Por lo que el envío, procesamiento y publicación de artículos en la revista es totalmente gratuito.